Feral honeybees,
Facts;
European honeybees require protection from the elements, a store of
food (40lbs+honey 5lbs+ pollen) to carry them through the winter period
when between 6,000 and 12,000 workers together with the queen are
present. They increase to 90,000 workers, a queen and some 200 drones
by July.
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Swarm
of Honey Bees
A swarm of honey bees has settled in somebodies garden tree,
the owner of the tree called a beekeeper not a pest control
company.
Photograph by Gregory Boon © 2002 |
Shelter,
where ever bees have lived they will always live, i.e. hive, skep,
chimney flue, roof, soffit/ facia, behind tile hanging above ceilings
in dormers etc. The only way to not have bees in residence is to
prevent access, almost impossible or to fill the voids. Bees require
3 cubic feet of space (810 cu. Centimetres) If they have less space
then the tendency to swarm is increased.
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Feral
Honey Bees have
filled the whole chimney void with comb.
Photograph by Gregory Boon © 2002
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From 1994 in
South East England conditions have changed, there are thousands
of colonies fewer, the Environment is adversely affected, an Asiatic
mite, varroa destructor is here, hundreds of bee keepers have given
up. The mite sucks the hæmolymph from the bees and in doing
so injects a paralysis virus causing the adult bees death, the mite
breeding cycle causes loss of worker pupae and greatly increase
the demise of hived and feral colonies, the remaining bees abscond
to join healthy colonies infesting them.
Any colony
present in a dwelling will therefore die out, often during late
Winter or early Spring, all infected colonies will succumb within
three years maximum. Only by continual swarming as at present will
any bees survive outside the control of bee keepers.
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A
dangerous job without scaffolding.
Removing an established honeybee colony from a chimney.
Photograph by Gregory Boon © 2002 |
Removal of
colonies from buildings is simple if done promptly when a swarm
arrives, or with established colonies the best removal period is
early April through to the middle of May, this is a period when
the colony is expanding rapidly and honey present is minimal. (Climate
change now brings this forward by two weeks in 2000 & in 2002
by five weeks)
Costs, expensive
in terms of building work since wild bees live high, hollows in
trees being the natural home. In walls and above ceilings the plaster
is best removed and is the cheapest for reinstatement. Tile hanging
in good order should not be disturbed, in poor order then complete
retiling with fibre glass or rockwool inserted between the studs.
Facias and soffitts require to be ventilated under current building
regulations. Bees require only a quarter inch hole for access.
Chimneys, bees occupy only disused flues, they recognise used flues
although the odd error can happen. In the case of flues there is
no need to do anything other than smoke out an incoming swarm, after
three days they will not leave. Established colonies are easily
removed however the costs must include a scaffold for chimneys and
similar high locations.
Poisoning is
an option, however the costs are similar simply because a food substance,
honey, is involved, all honey has to be removed and destroyed as
it will be contaminated with pesticide which will end up in hives
killing bees and in honey for human consumption. Bees are excellent
thieves. Removal costs run between a £150 & £500
where scaffolding is involved. Because the bees will die and others
will reoccupy my advice is to wait till bees die out and seal up
entrances and any local access points. There is often honey left
now upwards of 40-100lbs. This will eventually seep out as a wax
moth undertaker arrives to consume the brood combs. The very strong
but delicate engineering work done by the bees is quickly undone
by the moth larvae, the result is pounds of honey cascading down
the chimney or seeping through walls and ceilings and floors.
As with
everything prevention is better than cure, the likelihood of bees
taking up residence in your house is as good as you winning £5
million on the lottery jackpot unless there have been bees there
before, even twenty years ago, then the odds reduce substantially.
They increase where bees have previously resided.
What are the
consequences of living with bees, realistically most of time you
would not be bothered by them. Your home already contains many animals,
plants and bacteria some of which you are aware and some you have
not considered. Global warming, climate change and varroa has affected
the bees and consequently how they will impinge on you. Bees resident
at 2,5 metres high or less are likely to be bothersome when you
are active within a three metre radius of their entrance, incidentally
their entrances are always external and rarely more than one and
then close to the nest. I am aware of two to three entrances as
much as 2 metres apart and of one entrance two metres from the nest.
Where the
nest is more than three metres high and two metres away from a window
then there really is no problem in my view, the problem lies then
with the attitude of the householder. The exception to this must
be for the few people who are extremely allergic to bites and stings
from any insects and who will suffer anaphylactic shock and will
die as a result unless they receive a subcutaneous andrenlin injection
to bring up their heartbeat to normal, these people now carry their
own Epi-pen to self inject. The rest of you suffer reactions to
stings in varying degrees but to a single or even ten stings there
is normally nothing other than discomfort in the form of pain for
up to five minutes and itching for perhaps two days. As a regularly
stung bee keeper I suffer the pain for a few seconds or a half minute,
no itching or irritation, if I receive two or three hundred stings
within an hour or two then I might suffer some localised swelling.
Bees do not normally sting aggressively except in defence of their
immediate colony and if they do suddenly become aggressive then
there is an underlying reason which often has to do with a foul
smell, excessive heat, poison which affects their mobility senses
or some similar disaster. Bees resident in roofs and chimney present
no danger whatsoever until the builder is needed, bees dislike sweaty
animals including humans and will sting them within close proximity
of the nest. Beware! Bees in your garden present no danger at all,
watch them visit the flowers collecting nectar, watch them clean
pollen from their bodies and pack it into the pollen baskets on
their hind legs, note the different colours of the pollen.
Solitary and
bumble bees, most solitary bees do not sting or have an ineffective
sting which will not penetrate your skin, bumble bees are far less
likely to sting even than honeybees, you would have to squash them
before they will sting. It is UNLAWFUL to poison any of these bees
and there are 20 different bumbles and some 200 different solitaries.
Any one successfully prosecuted can face up to a £25k fine
in the Magistrates Court and unlimited fine in the Crown Court,
in effect the level of fine imposed averages £1,6k for this
offence presently.
Finding
a beekeeper who is also a qualified builder is nowadays sadly very
difficult.
Dependant upon
the health & Varroa infestation level colonies might be starving
or a strong colony could have stored anything up to 100lbs of honey.
Because honeybees are classified as FOOD PRODUCING ANIMALS precautions
must be taken to prevent any contaminated honey being carried away
and stored in beehives for human consumption. A possible method
to allow building works to progress alongside resident bees might
be possible by putting up a temporary screen to cause the bees to
fly up and over and away from the work site, such an obstruction
needs to be in place for a week or two before it's full potential
is realised. Protective clothing for the workmen is another option
together with a smoker in operation. Anaesthetising the bees with
CO² is another option, honeybees stand far higher levels of
CO² than humans however the precautions needed to be taken
have not nor will they be assessed by the writer. Chilling is a
very successful method of controlling the bees and reducing those
available for flying. The colony brood temperature has to be maintained
at 90 Fahrenheit, bees are torpid at 40 Fahrenheit, they will cluster
tight and raise the temperature by consuming food, oscillating the
abdominal tergites, the resulting energy use gives off heat to raise
the brood temperature, an air conditioning plant comes to mind.
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Author
Peter Hutton
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Article
by Peter Hutton.
Photographs
by
Gregory Boon published
with permission on Kentbee.com.
Copyright © 2002 by owners. All rights reserved.
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